In its The Art of Culture column, the Santa Fe Reporter recounted how Counter Culture owner Jason Aufrichtig never envisioned the cafe lasting 30 years when he moved to Santa Fe in 1991. The Baca Street location at 930 Baca Street has become a beloved spot known for its cinnamon rolls and diverse menu offerings. Aufrichtig expressed gratitude for the milestone during an interview with the publication. The cafe’s consistent atmosphere and offerings have changed little over the decades, according to the report.
Aufrichtig told the Santa Fe Reporter about an early encounter that introduced him to the cafe’s famous cinnamon rolls, recalling a friend who insisted on the visit with the words “What are you, nuts?” The owner reflected on the first review by former Santa Fe Reporter writer Kate Winslow, which highlighted the cafe’s appeal to a certain group of Santa Fe-core people. This coverage helped shape his vision for the business. The article noted that such connections attracted Aufrichtig to open the cafe.
The Santa Fe Reporter detailed that Aufrichtig and his then-partner opened an initial version of the business before launching the current Counter Culture in October 1996 after facing early challenges described as do or die. The founder credited the support of local community figures and the publication’s early attention with sustaining the venture through its formative years. Very little has changed in the cafe’s approach or vibe since those early days. Aufrichtig continues to operate the business with a focus on gratitude for its longevity and the relationships it has fostered.
The City of Santa Fe’s Culture Connects initiative has emphasized the importance of longstanding community institutions like local cafes in shaping the city’s cultural identity, according to city documents from the effort launched in 2020. That project, which included input sessions and a cultural cartography report, received more than $70,000 in CARES Act funding to support arts and culture programming during the pandemic. The Santa Fe Reporter’s coverage of Counter Culture aligns with this recognition of how such establishments contribute to the area’s shared cultural landscape. City officials have continued to promote these spaces as vital to resident and visitor experiences alike.
A New Mexico Restaurant Association assessment found that the state’s food service sector supports tens of thousands of jobs and generates billions in economic activity each year, with Santa Fe establishments playing a notable role in tourism-driven revenue. The Santa Fe Reporter observed that Counter Culture has endured economic shifts and changing customer habits while maintaining its core identity. Aufrichtig’s commitment to the original concept has helped the cafe remain a Railyard District anchor. This resilience mirrors broader trends in local hospitality where heritage and adaptability intersect.
The Santa Fe Reporter further detailed Aufrichtig’s memories of the cafe’s early days, including the transition from a smaller operation to the current space that has served generations of residents and visitors. The piece highlighted how the business survived initial financial pressures through determination and community support. Aufrichtig recalled the period as formative, shaping his appreciation for the work. Such narratives underscore the cultural value of independent eateries in preserving Santa Fe’s distinct character.
City of Santa Fe cultural planning documents stress the need to sustain these community hubs as part of broader heritage preservation strategies. The Santa Fe Reporter’s The Art of Culture column positioned Counter Culture as an example of successful longevity in a competitive industry. Aufrichtig’s story illustrates the personal and professional dedication required to reach such milestones. The cafe’s continued operation reinforces its place in the local cultural fabric.
